Muromachi Wakuden is a rustic restaurant with finesse. It has a long-established history representing Kyoto—known for its rich ingredients from Kyotango, surrounded by sea and mountains—and its delicate cuisine that values the seasons. We held an event in Kyoto, surrounded by the season's fresh greenery, to explore the world of cuisine and aged sake by combining the cuisine of Muromachi Wakuden with a selection of sake carefully selected by Jyuku to Kan (sake matured). First, we prepared three types of matured sake: pale, golden yellow, and amber. We selected Junmai Ginjo H9 for the pale color and served it chilled. For golden yellow and amber, we selected two sakes from the same brewery, Daruma Masamune: three and ten years old, each served at room temperature. Tenju offers a difference in flavor due to the gradual temperature rise. By showcasing two sakes from the same brewery, we demonstrated how time changes sake.
The meal began with a clam hotpot. To go with the robust
umami broth, we enjoyed Daruma Masamune (matured for three years) in two ways: at room temperature and mixed with the clam hotpot broth. The ratio of
sake to broth was 1:2. If mixed with new
sake, the broth would be overpowered, but it was an opportunity to experience the potential of matured
sake. The next course was Isaki Shimoyaki (three-lined grunt grilled with skin on), and Wakaayu (young sweetfish) Sushi. The Isaki was served with soy sauce infused with the flavor of wild vegetables. The dish was paired with warmed unpasteurized
sake from Okuharima. The warm
sake brought out the flavors of the Isaki, wild vegetables, and soy sauce, even leaving a lingering aftertaste. The young sweetfish sushi was hand-rolled, so we served a well- balanced Uroko Daiginjo 10 Year Old . It harmonizes the overlapping flavors in the mouth and rounds out the taste.
Wild boar meat and Japanese pepper hotpot. The generous use of Japanese pepper is a spring specialty of Wakuden. With this we paired the sake, Suehiro 1984. The spiciness of the Japanese peppercorns combined with the layered flavors that time has fostered in the Suehiro makes for a memorable dish.
As the conversation deepened, we moved on to more flavorful dishes. The crab dish was paired with a 30-year-old sake called Naozane, which can also bring out the flavors of crab miso and kabosu. This edition of Naozane was a rare bottle brewed in 1964. The next dish, Tokishirazu Takekawayaki (summer-catch salmon grilled in bamboo leaves), was served with a lukewarm Tsuki no Katsura from Matsuda Tokubee Shoten, a brewery that, like Wakuden, is also located in Kyoto. Tsuki no Katsura sake is aged in jars, which impart a soft flavor due to the far infrared effect of being baked at high temperatures. The brewery created an original sake for Jyuku to Kan (sake matured), which is an assemblage of thirty-year-old and ten-year-old sakes.
The evening ended with a liqueur glass of Ito paired with tortoiseshell ginger, an enjoyable finish to a great event.
Muromachi Wakuden × Jyuku to Kan (sake matured)
Course Menu
Clam Nabe x Daruma Masamune aged for 3 years
Isakiyaki Shimo x Okuharima Yamahai Junmai Hyogo Yumenishiki Gojugo Nama
Wakaayu Sushi x Jukuro Kare Daiginjo 10 years
Hana Sansho Wild boar meat x Suehiro 1984
Natural mountain vegetables with sesame sauce
Watari Crab Kabosu x Hizo Naozane 30 years old sake
Toki Shirazu Takekawayaki x Tsuki no Katsura Matured and Warmed Original 30 years/10 years
Assemblage Comte Cheese 36 months aged
White rice
Funa Sushi Ochazuke
Scallop Tendon
Tortoiseshell Ginger x Sherry Cask Aged Sake Ito